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How 2-For U: Drywall Repair - Patching a large hole in your wall.

In this How 2-For U segment, David Pucci of Valerio Painting & Remodeling demonstrates how to repair a large hole in your drywall such as that caused by a ki…

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25 Comments

FreedomExpress11 · September 10, 2014 at 7:52 AM

I wish you’d tell us what the brackets are called exactly. I am unable to
find the brackets or even the seam tape you used. Great video tho.

rajiv mcintosh · September 10, 2014 at 8:44 AM

He didn’t add the orange peel so it’s gonna look different from the rest of
the house

Clayton Hailey · September 10, 2014 at 9:41 AM

Thanks for this dry wall repair insight David. I have been experimenting
with different methods and processes of dry wall repair in my
homes. Instead of the brackets that you mentioned I cut the whole back to
half of stud and screwed the sheet rock piece to the stud. However, your
demonstration is very meticulous was well received. Thanks for sharing.

rajiv mcintosh · September 10, 2014 at 9:46 AM

He didn’t add the orange peel so it’s gonna look different from the rest of
the house

Chris Johnson · September 10, 2014 at 10:24 AM

Great demonstration. Some other drywallers use a board in the back of the
new piece. I think your metal brackets would work better. Thanks!

holidaysin · September 10, 2014 at 10:44 AM

I just use chicken wire and the cover of a bible to patch up the hole.
Forget the tape, Jesus will prevent mold from seeping in.

dancphotog · September 10, 2014 at 11:24 AM

Bitchin’ spirit patch!

Roy Bush · September 10, 2014 at 11:28 AM

Very helpful. I am going to practice one time and then fix the hole in my
garage ceiling.

Michael Dirk · September 10, 2014 at 12:20 PM

Lots of ways to skin a cat. Great video! I like those clamps. Do they have
them at home depot / Lowe’s? Thanks!

kevin scammell · September 10, 2014 at 12:28 PM

for door knobs I use a 4″ hole saw. I drill a blank filler piece of the
same size. usually 5/8″ bevel the edges. take a piece of 1×3 approx. 8
“‘s 2 screws at the top and bottom. bevel the wall hole./ screw the patch
to the 1by. mud it with 90 min dry patch with glue added. Install door
stop. you did an excellent job.!!!!

jeff k · September 10, 2014 at 12:52 PM

for the beginner, and selling your home and you need a quick fix. this
will work great, But, Those brackets _UCK. You’d be better to use a stud
finder and make your hole from stud to stud… eventually those seams will
crack especially on the bracket and the piece fitting so tight.
Yes. for repairs use the mesh tape, and float the mud double the patch

raygb62998 · September 10, 2014 at 1:31 PM

You forgot to fuck the hole


LEAH HARKER · September 10, 2014 at 2:20 PM

This video and the comments were helpful! Thanks! even to the jerks..
thanks…

Ken Evans · September 10, 2014 at 3:19 PM

you’re taking too long to do this repair. Do a California patch — cut
your scrap 8″x8″, then remove 1″ wide back paper + gypsym around the
perimeter of your scrap. You will have 6″ x 6″ patch with 1″ front paper
flaps. Mud up the flaps, then install the patch. Squeeze out excess mud
with a knife, then after it drys, mud over the seams to finish up.

No need for tape or mesh, the paper wings of the patch are the tape.

James Kirby · September 10, 2014 at 3:55 PM

You don’t know what you are doing, you suck.

jennlmanch1 · September 10, 2014 at 4:49 PM

Actually I thought this was helpful! I’m not a professional and it was nice
to see each step slowly! If David was doing this without explaining the
process, it may have taken much less time for him. But, then I would have
no clue the steps to take to do the project! I’m sure everyone who does
this everyday, has their own way of doing it. So, why are you watching a
video on drywall repair and criticizing someones elses way of doing things?
This is for DIY not contractors right? Anyway, Thanks David for showing me
how to fix the hole in my bathroom wall!

Hoa Dang · September 10, 2014 at 5:36 PM

John H. Outlan · September 10, 2014 at 5:41 PM

I’d try to keep the piece of removed drywall intact so if I screwed
something up cutting I could easily reproduce a match to the hole. The
Calif patch was interesting, but I’d rather use seem tape like David
did….plus, if you’re not filming a video, doing it the way David did
takes no time at all. To each his own…it’s certainly not rocket
science….;-)

tjdinfl · September 10, 2014 at 6:18 PM

You turned my stomach at 1:20. Why go through the hassle of laying out a
square hole? The CORRECT way to so this is to determine what size piece you
will need to properly do the repair, cut the piece and place it on the wall
and trace around it. Now cut the wall on your marks and the piece will fit
right in. That is drywall repair 101. If you are concerned with your repair
being level, just place a level on your piece and then trace around it.
C’mon man!

filian0206 · September 10, 2014 at 6:27 PM

can u put on the materials and tools that you use?????? thanks

MrDanielo633 · September 10, 2014 at 7:16 PM

really come on it doesnt matter how u do long he did the dawm thing but yea
it was to long to fix

Russ Pollman · September 10, 2014 at 7:28 PM

Never doing this, why not YouTube it? I’m in agreement w/others, too much
measuring, but good tip on wires and studs. I need to repair garage’s
drywall (rewired – conduit, etc. against walls), my friend’s 8yo kid & I
took measurements, cut out (5) cardboard templates, and eye-balled/traced
over holes. I took my old 9.6V, 3.38″ dia. Makita circular saw, knowing
where my studs were, eased it “onto” lines, cutting thru or most of the
depth of drywall – easily and accurately. Cutting beyond border was no
issue of course. Used blade in spots. Shop vac! Traced templates on
drywall and cut “inside” the lines. Firring strips ($0.99) behind
drywall…

Rob Tytler · September 10, 2014 at 8:22 PM

by the time he had the hole cut out i would have been done and waiting on
the mud to dry to sand!!! what a jabroni!!!

Ken Evans · September 10, 2014 at 8:25 PM

Also you’re sanding way too much. scratch coat of mud doesn’t have to be
perfect (it won’t), but by third coat you should be free of streaks from
chunks, fish eyes, and other imperfections. Small knife tracks can be
scraped down. Pay attention to feather your edges, and you will only need
a tiny bit of sanding to blend the edges of your mud into the wall.

ReXeXeR · September 10, 2014 at 8:39 PM

I thought the rule to painting was to use a primer first?

Comments are closed.