I use a trowel to coat with. This is some of how I do it.
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Mix 2 cups water with one box of drywall mud. Apply about 1/8″ thick. Use a plastic bag for texture. I glued the bag to cardboard. This is my first attempt a…
48 Comments
Ben Watson · September 20, 2014 at 5:11 PM
how many coats are you doing? i find the bow trowel fast!
Ben Watson · September 20, 2014 at 6:05 PM
faster than a flat trowel*
Bestbetbuying · September 20, 2014 at 6:23 PM
Nice work. So flat joints first, then butt joints?
matty0030 · September 20, 2014 at 7:12 PM
When you are doing your inside corners do you use your trowel or knife
matty0030 · September 20, 2014 at 7:59 PM
Whats the difference between a curved and a straight trowel I was thinking
on buying both
gasmanrm · September 20, 2014 at 8:36 PM
you sure make it look easy,even though I know its not
matty0030 · September 20, 2014 at 9:32 PM
What size hawk do you use, I wanna start using a hawk and trowel Ive been
using pan and knife now for some years
matty0030 · September 20, 2014 at 10:03 PM
Any difference in hawk size im looking at buying an 11×4 1/2 or a 12×5
trowel
Joe C. · September 20, 2014 at 10:05 PM
WOW AMAZING WORK … NICE CLEAN LINES .
DRYWALL TAPING
Richard McWhorter · September 20, 2014 at 10:11 PM
Good Video, Very clear and helpful. Any insight on why some guys use the
small trays for mud and others prefer the hawk? The hawk seems more useful
?
TheSteamer13 · September 20, 2014 at 10:51 PM
Wonderful CRAFTSMANSHIP! I just learned a lot. I am trying to fix a bad
taping job in my daughters bedroom. I was struggling then found out what I
am doing wrong. Thanks for your video.
Nomad heart · September 20, 2014 at 11:38 PM
not as much shrinkage if you dont water it down right?
Mud Slingr · September 21, 2014 at 12:32 AM
Blending can be tricky. I usually do all the flats in my houses first then
go back to the first room or butt. By that time the flat is usually “set
up” enough that I can take the butt through it without hurting it. Trying
to do a flat and then immediately a butt running into it is not easy to
blend but it can be done. Just needs a lot of practice. Your final coat on
butts needs to be quite thin as well. But then I always do 3 coats on my
butts.
rotaxrider · September 21, 2014 at 12:57 AM
So is the second and final coat the exact same way on this flat. When this
joint is finished should you see still see the two raised edges of the 2
sheets where the factory edge starts or is the mud feathered pass these
hiding them.
rotaxrider · September 21, 2014 at 1:53 AM
Thank you mudslinger You understood correctly and that is exactly what I
mean. I see the shoulders of the factory seam and wasn’t sure if the mud
needs to hide the shoulders or if it should be done that the last coat is
so very thin over the shoulder that it is barely visible. Because sometimes
I’ll see it just like you described and other times the finished coat is
much wider covering and hiding the shoulder completely.
Mud Slingr · September 21, 2014 at 2:44 AM
Thank you !
Mud Slingr · September 21, 2014 at 3:34 AM
@derv39 I use a flat 11¾” x 3¾” trowel.Once you master a flat trowel you’ll
never need a curved one in my opinion.
townnet · September 21, 2014 at 3:49 AM
How if my wall already painted with Pearl Paint， do i need to remove it
before skim coating?
jay lapointe · September 21, 2014 at 5:37 AM
your very good
Mud Slingr · September 21, 2014 at 6:07 AM
Thanks for your comment. I use a flat trowel for everything. Once you
master it you will never need a curved trowel for anything again. A curved
trowel is a great learning tool though. It helps you to understand how much
mud is applied and a little more forgiving. Good trowel size is 11½ x 4¾.
jay don · September 21, 2014 at 7:01 AM
put a video of second coat plz
Mud Slingr · September 21, 2014 at 7:59 AM
Sorry for the late reply. Yes it’s sounds like your mud may be a little too
thick. If you see mud underneath, chances are your mud is full of air holes
that do not get squeezed out. Warm mud can be gooey and hard to work with
also. Cooler mud and temps are nice for applying mud. But usually air
bubbles behind the tape are caused by voids in the mud applied(bare spots).
MicheleInAlabama · September 21, 2014 at 8:48 AM
Beautiful job. Love the name Mud Slingr. 🙂 Thank you SO MUCH. I see now
what I’m doing wrong — I didn’t realize there was a way to hold the trowel
at an angle to feather the edges. I’m telling you, I have a new found DEEP
respect for the drywall and ceramic floor guys……I’ve never been in such
pain or done anything so difficult as mudding drywall and laying ceramic
tile.
EngineeringFun · September 21, 2014 at 9:28 AM
Robert Redford could do this work much better.
Montana Harvestor · September 21, 2014 at 9:49 AM
Smoking weed before doing this type work will give you whacky ideas. 2
weeks, 2 months, 2 years.
Matt Spackey · September 21, 2014 at 10:46 AM
I could of had that whole section done in 2 swipes, these old guys lol
Jerry Muller · September 21, 2014 at 11:21 AM
This worked awesome!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR POSTING YOUR VIDEO DUDE!!!
BARB G · September 21, 2014 at 11:23 AM
HOW DO YOU REMOVE “BAD”, UGLY, HIGH SPOTS IN A CEILING BEFORE
RE-TEXTURING/PAINTING???? IT JUST WON’T “SCRAPE” OFF!
Miranda Islas · September 21, 2014 at 11:35 AM
STOP THE TEXTURING!!! Texture is BAD! No more textured ceilings or walls
please! It looks cheap and dated.
wonbadood · September 21, 2014 at 12:30 PM
I nearly hit the thumbs down when you said “paper bag” but stuck with it
and enjoyed. Trowel & Hawk would be much faster i think but “Thumbs Up”
anyway.
Bluesman Channel · September 21, 2014 at 12:39 PM
This texture job makes me think of one thing and one thing only. DYNAMITE!
jaguar420g · September 21, 2014 at 12:47 PM
my cousin showed me how to do something similar in the early 80,s but what
he did was to put a couple of tea towels in a plastic bag really tight.
then roller on the artex slightly looser then move the bag around the
ceiling. The name for that style of patten was broken leather
Billy Cox · September 21, 2014 at 1:31 PM
Maybe 2 more weeks, maybe 2 months.
Good one!
DirtySockPuppets · September 21, 2014 at 2:13 PM
Paaaper Baaag!
juleen76 · September 21, 2014 at 2:50 PM
Wow, thanks! We’ve been trying to figure out how to match up a section of
our living room and couldn’t get the texture right. This worked perfectly!
Ldyroscoe · September 21, 2014 at 3:17 PM
What if you have the mud that is pre-mixed? Should we make it thinner?
CyberQuidam · September 21, 2014 at 4:02 PM
Paper baaag…. plastic baaag!
Jessica Capages · September 21, 2014 at 4:31 PM
This is a great learning experience! And sometime you have to make due with
what you can create! GREAT JOB!
Annie B · September 21, 2014 at 5:19 PM
Good idea- thanks! It would be nice to know what compound you’re using and
if you thinned it at all. I’m working on a ceiling now and have been just
using a roller. It’s turning out good but the white primer seems to show
through so will have to paint the ceiling. This process you used has full
coverage so a person won’t have to paint if they don’t want to.
wasabitobiko · September 21, 2014 at 5:39 PM
OMG.. WHY, WHY? would you use that texture.. Think about the people who
will have to deal with it after you’re gone. I’m in the process of cleaning
up someone else’s shitty job
rjcontra · September 21, 2014 at 6:31 PM
Good Grief…why do people who don’t know how to drywall make videos
wildflame1000 · September 21, 2014 at 6:51 PM
A right and easy way to make texture. Thanks for sharing.
binnsh · September 21, 2014 at 6:59 PM
That works good! Next time try rolling the JC on and listen to ROCK music
pattiecakes48393 · September 21, 2014 at 7:08 PM
nice n easy thats the kind I like
bobsan2360 · September 21, 2014 at 7:26 PM
wanna get my sander out with 40 grit
Marchetti Wingtips · September 21, 2014 at 7:48 PM
Lame!
Sharon S. Lee · September 21, 2014 at 8:23 PM
Great job on the video. Thx!
Brian Coffey · September 21, 2014 at 8:30 PM
Is this a joke?
Comments are closed.